中国传统服饰英文课堂PPT.ppt

1Chinese Costumes   The Chinese costume, which has over 5,000 years’ history, is just like a long river. And today we’ll present them in three parts, Han Dynasty, Tang Dynasty and Qing Dynasty.ØPart1 Han FuØPart2 Costume in              Tang Dynasty ØPart3 Cheongsam2Han Fu3§HanfuHanfu is also known as HanzhuangHanzhuang or HuafuHuafu ，is the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people. The term Hanfu derives from the Book of Han, which says, "then many came to the Court to pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han."§（后数来朝贺，乐汉衣服制度）4Standard stylehistorySpecific styleGallerybody5History§Hanfu has a history of more than three millennia, and is said to have been worn by the legendary Yellow Emperor. From the beginning of its history, Hanfu (especially in elite circles) was inseparable from silk, supposedly discovered by the Yellow Emperor’s consort, Leizu.6 The Shang Dynasty developed the rudiments of Hanfu; it consisted of a yi, and chang, worn with a bixi,. Vivid primary colors and green were used, due to the degree of technology at the time.7§the Western Zhou Dynasty，§the Hanfu became looser, with the introduction of wide sleeves and jade decorations hung from the sash which served to keep the yi closed. The yi was essentially wrapped over, in a style known as jiaoling youren, or wrapping the right side over before the left8§In the Eastern Zhou Dynasty， the “deep robe” (shenyi 深衣) appeared a combination of tunic（束腰外衣） and skirt. The upper and lower halves were cut separately but sewn as a single unit. An additional change was the shaping of the left side of the costume into a corner, fastened on the chest.9§Since Song and Yuan, official record used Hanfu to indicate garments Hans wear§During Liao dynasty, the emperor of Liao and Han officials wear Hanfu, and Empress and Khitan（契丹） officials wear their national clothing.§During Yuan dynasty, when editing History of Liao, the officials especially made an entry for Hanfu10§The term "Hanfu" to describe the clothing system of Hans, was not often used within Hans, but was more often used in other ethnic groups and nations, to distinguish the Hans clothing system and their own clothing system11Standard styleHat and head dressInformal dressSemi-formalFormal dressCourt dress12Hat and headwear--garment§The style of Han Chinese clothing can be summarized as containing garment elements that are arranged in distinctive and sometimes specific ways. This may be different from the traditional garment of other ethnic groups in China, most notably the Manchu-influenced Chinese clothes, the qipao, which is popularly assumed to be the solely recognizable style of "traditional" Chinese garb. A comparison of the two styles can be seen as the following provides13§Yi (衣): Any open cross-collar garment, and worn by both sexes§Pao (袍): Any closed full-body garment, worn only by men in Hanfu§Ru (襦): Open cross-collar shirt§Shan (衫): Open cross-collar shirt or jacket that is worn over the yi§Qun (裙) or chang (裳): Skirt for women and men§Ku (褲): Trousers or pants14On top of the garments, hats (for men) or hairpieces (for women) may be worn.§One can often tell the profession or social rank of someone by what they wear on their heads. The typical types of male headwear are called jin (巾) for soft caps, mao (帽) for a stiff hats and guan (冠) for formal headdress. Officials and academics have a separate set of hats for them, typically the putou (幞頭), the wushamao (烏紗帽), the si-fang pingding jin (四方平定巾; or simply, fangjin: 方巾) and the Zhuangzi jin (莊子巾). A typical hairpiece for women is a ji (笄) but there are more elaborate hairpieces.15161718Informal dress§Types include tops (yi) and bottoms (divided further into pants and skirts for both genders, with terminologies chang or qun), and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times (shenyi).19§ (中衣) or zhongdan (中單): inner garments, mostly white cotton or silk§ (衫裙): a short coat with a long skirt§Ruqun (襦裙): a top garment with a separate lower garment or skirt§ (褲褶): a short coat with trousers§Zhiduo/zhishen (直裰/直身): a Ming Dynasty style robe, similar to a zhiju shenyi but with vents at the side and 'stitched sleeves' (i.e. the sleeve cuff is closed save a small opening for the hand to go through)§Daopao/Fusha (道袍/彿裟): Taoist/Buddhist priests' full dress ceremonial robes20§A typical set of Hanfu can consist of two or three layers§The first layer of clothing is mostly the zhongyi (中衣) which is typically the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants. §The next layer is the main layer of clothing which is mostly closed at the front.§There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front. 21Semi-formal dress A piece of Hanfu can be "made semi-formal" by the addition of the following appropriate items:§chang (裳): a pleated skirt§ bixi(蔽膝): long front cloth panel attached from the waist belt§ zhaoshan(罩衫): long open fronted coat§ guan(冠) or any formal hats22Formal dress§Xuanduan (玄端): a very formal dark robe; equivalent to the Western white tie§Shenyi (深衣): a long full body garment§         (曲裾): diagonal body wrapping§ (直裾): straight lapels§Yuanlingshan (圓領衫), lanshan (襴衫) or panlingpao (盤領袍): closed, round-collared robe; mostly used for official or academical dress23Court dress§Court dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch (such as an enthronement ceremony). The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear. They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue. There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions.2425Specific Style§Historically, Han Clothing has influenced many of its neighbouring cultural costumes, such as Japanese kimono, yukata,Korean Hanbok and the Vietnamese áo tứ thân. Elements of Hanfu have also been influenced by neighbouring cultural costumes, especially by the nomadic peoples to the north, and Central Asian cultures to the west by way of the Silk Road.26gallery2728notes2930Costume  in Tang Dynasty 311、The brief introduction of costume in Tang dynasty 2、The features of costume in Tang dynasty 3、How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being? 32Brief Introduction§The clothing materials were exquisite（精美的）§The structure was natural, graceful and elegant §Adornments were splendid  §Complimented by elaborate hairstyle, ornaments and face makeup33The general features of women’s costume in Tang dynasty：1)topless（上空装，袒胸装）2）exposed arm3）oblique(斜的）collar4）large sleeves5）long skirt dressAll of these make it deservethe most typical open clothingstyle. The clothing materials areexquisite, the structure isnatural, graceful and elegant,and adornments are splendid. 34§This is the famous picture《簪花侍女图》showing a lady strolling in the court§The lady was wearing a leno-made upper garment, high-waist skirt and without underdress. This was called “topless”（上空装，袒胸装）§Mindedness: the open-minded state§“绮罗纤缕见肌肤”   “蝉翼罗衣白玉人 ”3536                     The open clothing style and its softness and lightness make the women’s costume in Tang dynasty so unique and distinctive. 37 The Tang women dressed in sets of garments, and each set a unique image in itself. 38In general, the Tang women's dressescan beclassified into three categories:（1）Thetraditional ruqun or double layered or padded short jacket that is typical of central China39Pattern—襦裙(Ruqun)Ruqun（襦裙）（襦裙）is worn by women. •   When its collar likes the letter “y”, we can called it “交领襦裙”.If its collar likes the number“11”,we can called it “对襟襦裙”.•   When they are classified by its height of the skirt，we can called them “齐腰襦裙”——Which waistband is on the waist. Or “齐胸襦裙”——Which waistband is above the chest .40（ 2）the hufu, or alien dress that came from the Silk Road;（3）Cross-Dressing(namely,girls dressed as boys)， the full set of male garments that broke the tradition of the Confucian formalities拘谨,礼节.41    After the reign of Tang Emperor Gaozong, purple was used as the garment color for officials above the third grade; light red, officials above the fifth grade; dark green. 42§officials above the sixth grade; light green, officials above the seventh grade; dark cyan, officials above the eighth grade; light cyan, officials above the ninth grade; and yellow, ordinary people and those who did not live in the palace. 43How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being?44§First,in Chinese history, the Tang Dynasty (AD618-907) was a period of unity and prosperity when the polity and economy were highly developed.Materialistic abundance and a relatively relaxed social atmosphere gave the Tang Dynasty an unprecedented opportunity to develop culturally, reaching its height in poetry, painting, music and dance.45§Second,Based on the progress made in silk reeling and dyeing techniques, the variety, quality and quantity of textile materials reached an unprecedented height. 46 The structure is natural, graceful and elegant, and adornments are splendid.47    As an important cultural element, woman’s costume in various forms in the Tang Dynasty well illustrates the open-mindedness and affluence during that period.48§Third, The Tang government was tolerant, and often appreciative of religions, art and culture from the outside world.Though the forms of garments were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty (206BC-220AD) and the Sui Dynasty (581-618), they have distinctive styles by itself being influenced by cultures and arts of the Western Regions. 49   Will you accept your girlfriends/  yourselves dressing very open?5051ØOrigin ØDevelopment52Origin——nameThe name cheongsammeaning simply long dressentered the English vocabulary fromthe dialect of  China's Guangdong Province.￿￿  In other parts of the country including Beijing, however, it is known as "qipao", which has a history behind it.53●Qing Dynasty(1644), Manchu, Banner People (qi ren).●1645 Shunzhi, “Tifa Yifu” Policy(剃发易服易服)the next 300 years, became adopted by the Chinese. ●Survived the political turmoil of the 1911 Xinhai Revolution toppled the Qing Dynasty.The history of cheongsam54The details of cheongsam● shirt is not exposed(衫不露外衫不露外)● the right-side lapel[lə'pel]  of junction[ˈdʒʌŋkʃən]  decorated with buttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰) ● clothing plus clothing(衣外加衣衣外加衣)● increase waistcoat['weɪskəʊt]  or jacket(增加坎肩或马褂增加坎肩或马褂)55● clothes do not get the waist down(衣服上下不取腰身衣服上下不取腰身)●Rectangular outline(外轮廓呈长方形外轮廓呈长方形)● Horseshoe-shaped  sleeve cover hand(马蹄袖盖手马蹄袖盖手)● set rolling craft decoration(镶滚工艺装饰镶滚工艺装饰)●flowerpot shoes(花盆鞋花盆鞋)56 Frog盘扣盘扣Openings衩57Embroidery[ɪm'brɔɪdərɪ] 刺绣刺绣Front of a garment襟58Development From 1914 to 1949 From 1914 to 194959Development From 1914 to 1949 From 1914 to 1949601930~19401930~1940，，Peak periodPeak period  western-style cutting method standard clothing of the modern Chinese women1920s1930s                              1940s 61Qipao (Ch'ipau) is one of the most typical, traditional costumes for Chinese women. Also known as cheongsam, it is like a wonderful flower in the Chinese colorful fashion scene because of its particular charm. It can display Chinese women's modesty, softness and beauty. Today, with the development of the market economy in China, Qipao has been the attention of the whole world,and becomes the representative of Chinese beauty.62Soong Qinglingthe wife of Sun Yat-sen, a great woman in ChinaSoong Mayling     She  owns  the  most number of qipao  all over the world.6364ØAs a formal costumes which represent our national culture frequently appeares in the iInternational occasions.65First lady’s style66§China is a historical country with splendid civilizations, in which the Chinese costume is an important part.§From the change of Chinese costumes, we can see the political change, economic development and customs evolvement through the long history. §Let’s fellow the history’s step, compose a new chapter for the Chinese  costume culture!67Thanks for your attention!68个人观点供参考，欢迎讨论。