中国传统服饰英文.ppt
63页
Chinese Traditional Costume Chinese Traditional CostumeßHan DynastyßSui and Tang dynastiesßSong and Yuan dynastiesßMing and Qing Dynastiesßthe Republic of China ßModern society HanfußHanfu is known as Hanzhuang , is the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people. The term Hanfu derives from the Book of Han,which says,''then many came to the court to pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han.'' (后数来朝贺，乐汉衣服制度) ßYi(衣)：Any open cross-collar garment, and worn by both sexes.ßPao(袍)：Any closed full-body garment, worn only by men. ßRu(襦)：Open cross-collar shirt.ßShan(衫):Open cross-collar shirt or jacket that is worn over the yi.ßQun(裙) or chang(裳)：Skirt for women and men.ßKu(裤)：Trousers or pants.The structure Informal dressßTypes include tops(yi) and bottoms (divided further into pants and skirts for both genders), and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times) Semi-formal dressßchang(裳):a pleated skirt ßbixi(蔽膝)：long front cloth panel attached from the waist belt.ßzhaoshan(罩衫)：long open fronted coat Formal dressßXuanduan(玄端)：a very formal dark robe, equivalent to the Western white tießShenyi(深衣)：a long full -body garmentßCurving-front robe(曲裾): diagonal body wrappingßPanlingpao(盤领袍):closed, round-collared robe; mostly used for official dress Costume in Tang Dynasty pThe brief introduction of costume in Tang DynastypThe features of costume in Tang DynastypHow does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being?Contents Tang DynastyØFrom the Sui to the Tang, the ancient Chinese clothing developed to its peak. The political stability, economic development, manufacturing and textile technology, and the frequent foreign relations contributed to the development of clothing. The clothing in this period had formed the most fantastic chapter in the clothing history. Features The general features of women's costume in Tang dynasty:•topless(上空装，袒胸装）•exposed arm•oblique collar•large sleeves•long skirt dressAll of these make it deserve the most typical open clothing style.The clothing materials are exquisite,the structure is natural,graceful and elegant,and adornments are splendid. Features This is the picture《Beauties Wearing Flowers》showing a lady strolling in the court.The lady was wearing a leno-made upper garment,high-waist skirt and without underdress.This is called “topless” The Tang women dressed in sets of garments,and each set a unique in itself.Features In general,the Tang women's dresses can be classified into three categories:ØThe traditional ruqun(襦裙) or double layered or padded short jacket that is typical of central China.Features ØThe hufu,or alien dress that came from the Silk RoadØCross-Dressing(namely,girls dressed as boys),the full set of male garments that broke the tradition of the Confucian formalitiesFeatures How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being?ØFrist,in Chinese history,the Tang Dynasty was a period of unity and prosperity when the polity and economy were highly developed.Materialistic abundance and a relatively relaxed social atmosphere gave the Tang Dynasty an unprecedented opportunity to develop culturally,reaching its height in poetry,painting,music and dance. ØSecond,based on the progress made in silk reeling and dyeing techniques,the variety quality and quantity of texitle materials reached an unprecedented height.How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being? How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being?ØThird,the Tang govement was tolerant,and often appreciative of religions,art and culture from the outside world.Though the forms of garments were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty and Sui Dynasty,they have distinctive styles by itself being influenced by cultures and arts of the Western Regions. Thank you for your listening! ØSong DynastyCostume of Song Dynasty (960-1279) was simple and natural, reflecting the development tendency of the era. The style of costume in Song Dynasty tended to be conservative, impressing people with simple, pure and elegant feelings. The main characteristics of women’s clothing are narrow, long, thin.唐代文化是一种开放的类型，但宋代文化则是一种相对收敛的类型，两者有很大的差异，宋代在政治上虽然开放民主，但由于“程朱理学”的思想禁锢，和对外政策的妥协退让，服饰文化不再艳丽奢华，而是简洁质朴。
宋代强调“存天理，灭人欲”的观念，使人的个体对立性全部仰制了，对妇女的约束也推到了极点，所以宋代女装拘谨、保守，色彩淡雅恬静，宋代不论权贵的皇亲国戚，还是一般的百姓，都爱穿着直领, 对襟的褙子，因为既舒适得体，又显得典雅大方 ØSong DynastyThe clothing style of Song Dynasty is characterized by its elegance. Men usually wore gowns with round collars, while women wore short jackets or coats with matching short robes or Chinese-style jackets with buttons down the front. This elegant style was influenced by the dress of the northern minority peoples.Gauze pants. Southern Song dynasty .Chayuanshan, Fuzhou, Fujian province.This pair of pants is made from extremely thin gauze decorated with precious objects (gold ingots, swastikas, coral, rhinocerotic horns, dharma wheels), lozenges and flowers, all arranged in an elegant and orderly manner. Pants in this style were popular in the Song dynasty and usually worn under a long skirt. ØSong Dynasty It has already began foot-binding in the Song dynasty when "sancunjinlian" has came into being. 三寸金莲三寸金莲 ØYuan DynastyThe Yuan Dynasty (1279-1368) was the amalgamation age of ethnic groups in China’s history, and the dresses and personal adornments of this time also fully represented this feature. The costumes of Yuan Dynasty has no fixed style, the main style is robe. There is little difference in robe between men and women.However, due to the Characteristic of nation, the garments in Yuan Dynasty are divided into Mongolian style and Han style. ØYuan Dynasty蒙古族女子，时兴戴一种很有特色的蒙古族女子，时兴戴一种很有特色的“罟罟冠罟罟冠”，，高约高约70－－100厘米，其顶端扩大成平顶帽厘米，其顶端扩大成平顶帽形；外面以红绢、金锦或毛毡包裱形；外面以红绢、金锦或毛毡包裱。
ØYuan DynastyZhisunfu:质孙服上衣下裳，上紧下短，并在腰间加襞(bì）积，肩背挂大珠Zhisunfu was just formulated in 1321 during the reign of Yuan Emperor Yingzong by referring to ancient systems: upper and lower short garments were pieced together; folds were added to the waistline, and big beads were hung on shoulders and the back. Emperors and officials in all ranks wore such garments, and the Han people called them as theYiseyi.（一色衣）. ØYuan Dynasty ØYuan Dynasty元代蒙古族男子，戴一种用藤篾做的元代蒙古族男子，戴一种用藤篾做的“瓦楞帽瓦楞帽”，有方圆两种样式，顶中装，有方圆两种样式，顶中装饰有珠宝。
饰有珠宝 Qing Dynasty Qing Dynasty During the Qing Dynasty, clothes were elegant and poised(雍容华贵的). People at that time wore clothes befitting their social status, official ranks(社会地位) and lifestyle according to the regulations of the Qing government. The ornamentation of formal (chaofu) and semi-formal (jifu) court robes included the dragon motif together with a decorative representation of the Chinese conception of the cosmos. The dragon symbolised the emperor, known as the Son of Heaven, and permission to wear the robe was given by him. Those who passed the civil service examinations and attained the status of a government official were also granted the privilege of wearing court robes. Rank was further distinguished by a hierarchy of colour and ornamentation. The cheongsam is an eminently feature of Qizhuang costume, which still has certain impacts on modern costume. Especially ,along with the development of China ,a cheongsam that demonstrates women’s curvaceous beauty has become the representative garment of the Han people, as it can show the femininity and temperament of oriental ladies. Main Characteristics● shirt is not exposed(衫不露外衫不露外)● the right-side lapel of junction decorated with buttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰) ● clothing plus clothing(衣外加衣衣外加衣)● increase waistcoat or jacket(增加坎肩或马褂增加坎肩或马褂) Main Characteristics● clothes do not get the waist down(衣服上下不取腰身衣服上下不取腰身)●Rectangular outline(外轮廓呈长方形外轮廓呈长方形)● Horseshoe-shaped sleeve cover hand(马蹄袖盖手马蹄袖盖手)● set rolling craft decoration(镶滚工艺装饰镶滚工艺装饰)●flowerpot shoes(花盆鞋花盆鞋) The Chinese traditional costume Cheongsam ContentslThe definition of cheongsam lThe evolution of cheongsamlThe structure of cheongsamlRepresentative figures DefinitionßQipao(Chipao)isoneofthemosttypical,traditionalcostumesforChinesewomen.Alsoknownascheongsam,itislikeawonderfulflowerintheChinesecolorfulfashionscenebecauseofitsparticularcharm. The evolution•The late Qing DynastyIn 1919, the Ordinance（法令法令） about garments（服装） was announced by the National Government and cheongsam was established to be the national garments.•In 1920s In the early Republic of China, the cheongsam began to be popular again. •From the 1950s to 1960sIn 1950s and 1960s, cheongsams began to show up again in the people's lives.•From the 1930s to 1940s 1930s and 1940s saw the cheongsam in its peak fashion. Golden Era Golden Era The evolution •In modern timesØPopular again now.•From 1966 to 1976ØCultural Revolution, disasterThe evolution •Frog Frog 盘扣盘扣盘扣盘扣The structure立领立领襟襟衩衩•Mandarin collar Mandarin collar 立领立领立领立领•Lapel Lapel 襟襟襟襟•Openings Openings 衩衩衩衩•embroideryembroidery刺绣刺绣 The styleßSleeves: wide sleeves, narrow and long sleeves, middle sleeves, short sleeves or sleeveless.ßJin（襟）（襟）: round Jin, straight Jin, slanting Jin(斜襟斜襟), double Jin（双襟）（双襟）, Pipa Jin（琵琶襟）（琵琶襟）, and so on.ßCollar(领领): high collar, low collar，，or collarless.ßOpenings（开衩）（开衩）: high openings, low openings, no opening long sleevesshort sleeves sleeveless High collarCollarlessLow collar Representative figures•张爱玲张爱玲 Eileen Chang (1920-1995) A well-known writer，，be addicted to cheongsam.•Life is a colorful gown, covered with lice. •宋美龄宋美龄•Soong May-ling (1897-2003)•First lady in Republic of China.旗袍第一夫人旗袍第一夫人•She owns the most number of qipao all over the world. 邓丽君邓丽君Where there are Chinese there is her voice, she really made the beauty of the cheongsam, cheongsam accomplished her legend. In the film 《《In the Mood for Love》》（似水年华）（似水年华） ，，Maggie Cheung （张曼玉）（张曼玉）change more than 23 sets of qipao, after the movie release. It set off a rush of “cheongsam hot." Cheongsam reflects the elegant charm of oriental women 玉玉脂脂白白Expo (展览会展览会)2010 Shanghai China Cheongsam for Miss Manners青青花花瓷瓷宝蓝宝蓝 Thank you!!! 现代民族服饰现在，民族服饰是指各民族本身文化中独有特色的服饰，也可以称为地方服饰或民俗服饰。
由于我国民族众多，我今天重点介绍一下苗族服饰和白族服饰苗族服饰是我国所有民族服饰中最为华丽的服饰，既是中华文化中的一朵奇葩，也是历史文化的瑰宝 Modern Ethnic ClothingßNational dress is the unique culture of the nation's own unique costumes, can also be called local dress or folk costumes. Because of the many ethnic groups in our country, I will focus on the Miao costume and Bai clothing. Miao costume are the most gorgeous costumes of all ethnic groups in our country. It is not only a wonderful flower in Chinese culture, but also a treasure of historical culture. Miao costume ● Pleated coat （对襟短衣）● Wide leg pants （宽腿裤）●Pleated skirt with different length （长短不同的百褶裙）● Colorful headdress （多姿多采的头饰） Miao costume ● White gown （白布长衫）● Green cloth pants （青布裤）● Bright color of the waistcoat （色泽艳丽的坎肩）● Headband towering feather crown （头带巍峨羽冠） 白族崇尚白色，衣物以白色为贵。
再配以色彩对比明快而映衬协调、挑绣精美的披挂，充分反映了白族人在服装艺术上的高度智慧白族服饰 Bai clothingßBai advocate white, white clothes for your clothes. Matched with the contrast of bright color and the background of coordination, pick embroidered exquisite cloth, full reflects the Bai people in the clothing art of the high degree of wisdom. Bai clothing● The white scarf（白头巾）● Red waistcoat（红坎肩）● White shirt（白上衣）● Embroidery “Hundred shoes”（绣花“百节鞋”） Bai clothing●The white breasted jacket（白色对襟衣）●Black collar coat jacket（黑领挂外套）● Satin collar coat（绸缎领褂）● Little and dainty Embroidered Purse（小巧玲珑的绣花荷包） 。
