服装设计外文翻译+++.docx

服装设计外文翻译CouｔureSeｗｉnｇ Tｅｃhｎique Claｉｒe B.Ｓhaｅｆfer Ｐrinted UｎitedStaｔｅs oｒiginalｌypublｉshed TauntonＰreｓs,Ｉnc.　Ｃhaｐｔｅr４.Edgｅ Ｆinishes Ｈｅms,Facings BindingsUnless finiｓhed someway， garmenｔravel lｏokincomplｅte.　edges—tｈeneckliｎｅ; vｅｒticａlfrｏnt eｄgeｓ jackets，ｃｏats manyｂloｕｓｅs； jacｋｅts canｂecome　dｉstiｎｃtｉve， deｃorａtive　elｅmｅｎts deｓign．Thｒｅｅfinishes　usedeｘtensivelｙ ｃoutｕre:hｅmｓ，ｆａcinｇs edgeｆｉｎish dｅpeｎｄs ｍａnｙtｈings—thｅ　shape eｄgｅbeiｎｇ ｆiｎished;　its ｐositｉon tyｐｅ,dｅsigｎ　ｇarmeｎt；current fasｈｉon trenｄｓ; iｎｄiviｄｕalweaｒｅｒ boｔtomedge asyｍｍetrical,curveｄ,　scａｌloped ｏtheｒwiseｕｎusｕally shaped, faｃｉng．Ｅvｅn ｗｈen twoｄifferent edges requireｓliｇhtlｙ difｆerｅnｔ　finishｅs tailoreｄgaｒｍent wouｌd　reｑuirｅ　very different　finｉshiｎg fｒom evｅniｎggｏｗn， even ｓiｍｉlar　dｅsignｓ vorｋed dｉssimiｌarfabricｓ　ｗｏuld　dictate fiｎiｓhｅs suitabｌｅ eacｈfaｂric． Aｌthouｇh　hems, ｆaｃinｇs　ａlｌedge　ｆｉｎｉshｅs, each has　ｓlightlyｄｉffeｒent ｆunction. Hｅｍs　geneｒaｌlyuｓed lｏweｒｅdgｅs garmentｓectｉoｎ ｍanyhelｐ garmenthang ａttrａctively　ａddiｎgwｅiｇhｔ edgｅ.Fａciｎgs, otheｒhａnd，　vertｉcａｌｅdgeｓ garmeｎts.Biｎdinｇs ｃａn　uppｅr,ｌower verｔicaledｇes,　they’reusｅｄ most ofteｎ repｌaｃeｆacｉngｓ ｒather than hems. Facings cａn separatesｅctions finiｓhcｕrved shaｐｅdedgeｓ.　wheｎused oｎlyslightly cuｒved， nothingmore thａn　wｉdehem ａｌloｗａnce, ｗｈichｃase they’re caｌｌｅd ｅｘtｅndｅd　facｉｎgs. Ｂoth hems onlyone ｓide—usuaｌlｙ ｇaｒmeｎt.Binｄiｎgs, sepaｒatestｒips　garｍentｅdge finisｈboth ｓiｄes garｍeｎｔattrａｃtiｖely. Ｂeｃａｕsｅ mａｔｅriaｌstakes backseat　deｓｉreｄresulｔs, edges ａlｗayｓｆinisｈeｄ sｉmpｌestmｅthod　ｏnemost often usｅd rｅady-ｔo-weaｒｃonｓtｒuction hｏmesewinｇ．　Ｗhateveｒ fｉnｉｓhingｍethoｄ, ｈeｍs， faｃings biｎｄiｎgscan ｓewnｅnｔirｅly　mａchinｅwork.． handwork　vｉsible　finishedproduｃt, hｏｗeｖer, hａｎｄwork used ｔrａｄitｉonaｌcｏuture ｇarment. FACＩＮGS Fａcings, ｌikｅ hems, ｇarｍent.Unlike hｅms， ｗhicｈ hang ｆｒｅｅ ｇarmｅnt’shang ｍｏｒｅ tｈan ｉts overaｌｌ shapｅ,　faｃed edｇes freｑuｅｎtly fit bodｙ’scurves　subtlyafｆect garｍent’ｓsilhouｅtte.　Ｕｓeｄ gａrmentopｅnｉngs, curved edgｅs shａpｅdｅdgeｓ ｌike ｊacket lａpels, fａｃｉngｓ　contｒibuｔe siｇnificａnｔly overaｌlimpressｉｏｎ ｗell－cｏnstｒｕcteｄgaｒmenｔ. ｔｈreetypeｓ　fａｃings:exｔeｎded, ｓhaｐed　biａs.Ｔwo biasfacｉngs—are cｕt sｅｐaratelｙ fｒom seｗnfｒｏm ｓelf-ｆabric liｇhtweightlｉniｎｇ ｆabｒｉcｓ. eｘtｅｎdedｆaｃiｎｇ gａrｍeｎtsｅcｔioｎ ｌike plａiｎhem　couｒse,seｌf-fabric.　ｅｘｔendｅdfaciｎg nｏthingmore than　2-in.heｍ　sｅwnｅxaｃtly liｋe　plaｉnhｅm　（see ｐp． 63-64)． Wｈen　gaｒmｅntedge　leｎgth-ｗｉsegrａin,　extendeｄfａｃinｇ　dｕpliｃates slighｔcｕrvｅ, ｆａｃinｇcan’t duｐlｉcａｔe　mayhave　eaｓｅd,ｓtretched edgesmｏoｔｈly. extendedfａcing usｅdextｅnsiｖｅｌｙ couturebecａuse fｏldededge ｍoresｕpple tｈan ｓeameｄｅdｇes biasfａｃings　consequentlydｒaｐes　bｅtｔeｒ．　Ｅdges　exｔeｎdedｆacings gｅnｅｒallyｉｎｔerfaced stabilizeｄsｏ　oｒiginalshape itsname suggesｔｓ,　shapｅdｆaｃiｎｇ　ｕsuｓllｙｄuplicates　ｏfteｎuseｄ　eｄgeｓintenｄｅｄ crｉsp,conｓtruｃted　lｏoｋ， alwayｓuｓed inｔrｉcatｅlyｓhａped　eｄges liｋe　scalｌopｅdheｍ. ｂｉａsfacing stｒipｃut truｅbiaｓ. Becａusｅ ｄoesn’ｔdｕｐlicａte faciｎgmuｓt itself eｄge．Bｉａs ｆacings madefrom　lightweight fabｒics producｅnarrow， ｉnｃonｓｐicｕous　facｉｎｇｓ． cｏuｓtｕｒe,mｏre thaｎ one type　ofteｎuseｄ ｓinglｅgａrment　siｎｇｌeedge.　pinkgazar drｅsｓ sｈｏwn　ａbovｅ， exａｍpｌe,has extendeｄ　facings fｒonｔneckline　bacｋoｐening　ｓhａｐｅｄfacings frｏntneckliｎe　ｂacｋopeninｇ　ｓhapｅdｆacings　backnecｋｌiｎe. Siｍilａrly, ｐ．６0has ｓｈapeｄfacｉng uｐperｈａlf frontedge　exｔeｎdeｄfaｃing lowｅrｈａlf　edge．Before applyinｇ ａny kind facｉng,examine garmenｔ’ｓfit ｄeｔermｉneｗheｔｈｅr　edｇｅneｅds staytape (sｅｅ　ｐp. 4９-5０) ｉnｔｅｒｆacｅd(see 68).Onｃe you’ve ｈａｎdleｄ　yｏuｃan ｐrocｅed　facｉnｇyｏu’ve choseｎ. SHＡPＥD ＦACＩNＧS Shapｅd faｃinｇs can machine.Botｈ ｔypes ｃoutuｒe，whｉle　oｎly macｈine　applｉcａtｉons　ｍachinｅａｐpｌication　cｏurｓe,ｆasteｒ, sｏmｅtiｍesmore　difficuｌｔ faｃingso fitｓsｍoｏthly,　sometｉmesｖisiｂle gaｒmenｔedge． instrｕｃtionｓbeloｗ ａｐplyiｎgsｈａped facｉｎgｓ ｍaｃhinｅ,ｒefer ｙourfavorｉｔe seｗｉng manuaｌ．)　ｄｉｒeｃtｉoｎｓｆocus neckｌｉnefacingｓ because they’re　mｏst freqｕｅntly useｄ coutｕrewｏrkrｏoms. Hｏwevｅｒ, ｄiｒｅctioｎscan ｏthｅｒｅdｇes ｗaisｔbands,armholeｓ, applｉｅｄ　pｏckets， coｌｌars garmｅntlｉｎｉnｇs. facingｃan ｍadeaｎｙ time after nｅcｋeｄge staｂilｉzｅdappropriatｅｌy ｄｅsigｎ.Fａcingｓ can ｃutfrｏm originaｌgarmｅnｔ　pattｅｒn edgewasn’t　cｈangeｄ duriｎg　fｉｔtinｇprｏｃｅｓs, ｇarmentitself　cａn　serve pａttern.Ｗｈen　ｔhrｅａd-tracednecklｉne can ｃorｒesｐondｉnｇｓtitchｉng line fｉnisｈedneｃklinｅ caｎ　also ｇｕiｄewｈｅｎ ｙou’ｒe aｐplying　hａnd.Nｅck facings　can　sｅverａlshaｐes． Two mｏstpopular ｔradiｔiｏnalｃｉrclulaｒ　shape,　which measuｒｅs evendistａnｃe all arouｎd from rｅｃtａｎｇularｓhａpe, which extｅnds ａrmscｙeｓeams． Whｅn lａrgｅrshａｐｅ　faciｎgｅｄges cａn sｅamlｉnes,hoｌｄing ｔｈem　smooth facｉngshadｏw may also leｓsｏbtrusiｖe　lａrgershａpe，　dｅpending oｂｖioｕsdｉsaｄvaｎｔaｇｅ adｄitioｎalfａbric　introduｃed ｓhｏulderaｒea, which may gｉｖｅ ｂuｌkyａppearaｎｃｅ. Onｅ soluｔion reduciｎgsoｍe sｅａmlineｓ１／2　origiｎaｌpositｉｏｎs. alｗａｙｓaliｇned　ｃorresｐｏndinggａrmeｎt　ｓｅaｍliｎes， homｅseｗing．　lｅssfamiliａr rｅｃtaｎgular ｆaｃing. cａneasiｌｙ circulaｒfａcing， Staｒt　ｓｅlecｔinｇｓome ｓcraｐs fｒom　yｏur gａrment ｆabｒｉc　bａckfacings ｕnleｓs　whｉchcａｓe use　ligｈtｅr,ｆｉrmly woｖｅn　ｍaterial　faｃiｎgs.Rｅctaｎｇular　pieces preferａblebecause you’rｅcuttｉng ｒectanｇularfaciｎg hiｇh，rouｎd ｎecklｉnｅ back,ｂｅgiｎ ｏnelarｇe　ｒｅc。