新视界4课文中英文对照U3.doc

U 3Fifty years of fashion1 No history of fashion in the years 1960 to can overlook or underestimate two constant factors: jeans and the rise and fall of hemlines for women’s skirts and dresses.2 Denim, the textile which jeans are made of, was known in France in the late 16th century, but it was Levi Strauss who saw that mine workers in the Californian gold rush in the mid-19th century needed strong trousers, which he reinforced with metal pins. Blue denim jeans remained popular in the US as work clothes until the 1950s, but then became associated with youth, new ideas, resistance to authority and independent thinking. When Levi Strauss & Co began to export blue jeans to Europe and Asia in the late 1950s, they were bought and worn with huge enthusiasm by a large proportion of young people and recognized as a symbol of the young, informal American way of life.3 Hemlines have a more peculiar significance during this period. There is consensus among fashion editors that there is a precise relation, with only a few exceptions, between the length of women’s skirts and the economy. As the stock market rises, so do hemlines, and conversely, when it falls, so do they. Exactly why women should want to expose or conceal  U 3潮流50年1 从1960 年到 年的任何一部潮流史都不能忽视或低估两个恒在的因素：牛仔裤和女性裙子长度的变化。

2 做牛仔裤的布料劳动布在16 世纪末期的法国就已经为人所知，但却是李维·施特劳斯注意到19 世纪中叶加利福尼亚淘金热时的矿工对结实长裤的需求，因此她采用这种布料制作裤子，并配以金属铆钉使其更结实直到20 世纪50 年代，在美国蓝色牛仔裤仍然只是受欢迎的工作服，但是后来，它与青春、新思想、对抗权威和独立思考联系起来20 世纪50年代末，当利惠商业有限公司开始向欧洲和亚洲出口蓝色牛仔裤时，大批年轻人热情高涨地买来穿在身上，并把它当作年轻美国的不拘礼节的生活方式的象征3 在此时期，裙子的底边有着独特的重要意义潮流编辑们一致觉得：除了个别状况外，女性裙子的长度和经济之间有着密切的联系女性裙子的底边会随着股市的上涨而上升；反之，股市下跌，裙子的底边也下降究竟为什么女人会在经济繁华时露出双腿，而在经济萧条时遮住双腿目前仍是一种谜但总的趋势是明显的每当经济前景不明朗bare legs during periods of economic boom and bust remains a mystery. But the general trend is clear. Whenever the economic outlook is troublesome, the convention is for both men and women to wear more conservative clothes. 4 Perhaps the most important development in fashion in the 1960s was the miniskirt, invented by the British designer Mary Quant. Because Quant worked in the heart of Swinging London, the miniskirt developed into a major international fashion. It attracted greater respect when the great French designer, Courrèges, imported it into his range of clothes and developed it into an item of high fashion. But it would not have achieved such international currency without the development of tights, instead of stockings, because the rise in hemlines meant the stocking tops would be visible.5 The hippie movement of the mid-1960s andearly 1970s influenced the design of jeans, withthe trouser leg developing a “bell-bottom” style. By the mid-1970s, as the economy grew worse,hemlines descended to midi or medium (mid-calf) length and maxi (ankle length), while jeans were no longer limited to blue.6 Jeans remained fashionable during the period of punk, usually worn ripped, often with badges, chains and belts with metal ornaments, and pierced ears and noses. The look lasted for several years, although became more and more时，无论男女，其着装都较为保守。

4 也许在20世纪60年代，潮流界最重要的发展就是英国设计师玛莉·匡特发明了超短裙由于匡特在摇晃伦敦的中心工作，超短裙发展成为国际潮流界的重要流行服装伟大的法国设计师库雷热把超短裙引入到她设计的服装系列中，使其发展成为高档时装，超短裙因此得到了更大限度的承认但是如果只有长筒袜而没有发明裤袜的话，超短裙是不也许在全球范畴内流行的，由于裙子底边的上升会使长筒袜的袜口显露出来5 20 世纪60年代中期和70年代初期的嬉皮士运动对牛仔裤的设计也有影响，浮现了“喇叭”裤到20 世纪70 年代中期，随着经济状况的恶化，裙子达到中档长度（长及小腿中部）甚至长及脚踝，而牛仔裤也不再是清一色的蓝色了6 朋克时期牛仔裤仍然流行人们穿的牛仔裤一般是有破洞的，往往还会搭配徽章、链子和有金属饰物的腰带，并且这一时期还流行打耳洞和鼻洞此类装扮持续了好几年，然而作此装扮的人群逐渐地缩小到内城的年restricted to small groups of inner-city young people, and had little influence on other age groups.7 As a reaction to punk, the New Romantics was a fashion movement which occurred in British clubs. It was eye-catching and featured fancy shirts and blouses. Jeans were definitely not acceptable. 8 The mid-1980s saw the rise of a number of different styles. Power dressing was characterized by smart executive suits and, for the newly-empowered women, shoulder pads and knee-length skirts. Not surprisingly, the economy wasn’t stable, and people took less risks in what they wore. For men, the Miami Vice style, named after the television series, made use of smart T-shirts under designer jackets, and three or four days of beard growth. But as always, denim remained popular with the young. In particular, heavy metal music fans wore ripped jeans and denim jackets.9 Gradually hemlines started to rise again ... until the world stock market crash in 1987. So the late 1980s in the US saw the rise of the more conservative style called Preppy style, with classic clothes by Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers for men, button-down shirts, casual trousers and shoes, with a sweater tied in a loose knot around the neck. They also wore jeans, but either brandnew or clean and smartly pressed – not at all what Levi Strauss originally轻人小群体，其她年龄段的人受此影响不大。

7 作为对朋克的一种逆反，新浪漫主义是出目前英国俱乐部中的一场潮流运动新浪漫主义的着装很抢眼，以花哨的男女衬衣为特色牛仔裤是绝对不能接受的 8 20 世纪80年代中期浮现了不同风格。