越南领美亚丝绸的历史和发展（英文）.doc

越南领美亚丝绸的历史和发展（英文） 杜凯丽 浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院,丝绸学院 摘 要： 领美亚丝绸来源于安江新洲, 被认为是“越南丝绸之王”, 是一种传统的高档材料, 其中包括农民的辛勤工作和来自柿子提取物的天然染色草药20 世纪 70年代以来, 在现代化的生产过程中, 尼龙纤维和涤纶占领了市场, 领美亚丝绸有消失的危险本文通过历史文献对越南领美亚丝绸的历史、发展、衰退和复兴进行深入研究, 介绍了采用双螺旋提取物作为主要原料的染色技术, 将织物染成黑色, 并建议将领美亚丝绸应用于纺织和时尚产业, 作为可变市场的高品质材料关键词： 越南丝绸; 领美亚丝绸; 安江省; 新洲; 柿子果子; 时尚品; 作者简介：Do Khai Ly, (1993- ) , Master student, Research direction: Textile chemistry and dyeing technology;History, culture and art of silk;Material design, fashion design, development trend of garment products.收稿日期：2017-08-24The history and development of Lanh My A silk in VietnamDO Khai Ly Institute of Silk, College of Materials and Textiles, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University; Abstract： Considered as “the queen of Vietnam silk”, Lanh My A silk, originating from Tan Chau, An Giang, is a kind of traditional high-class materials containing the hard work of peasants and natural dyeing herbs from persimmon extract. Since the 1970s, nylon fiber and polyester have dominated the market instead of traditional silk, and Lanh My A silk is in danger of disappearing in modern production process. By historical documents and research, this article attempts to provide the in-depth knowledge about the history, development, recession and revival of Lanh My A silk in Vietnam. The research introduces the dyeing technology in which double helix extract is used as primary materials to make fabrics black. Moreover, this article suggests the application of Lanh My A silk in textile and fashion industry as a high quality material for variable market.Keyword： Vietnam silk; Lanh My A silk; lacquer silk; An Giang Province; Tan Chau; persimmon fruit; fashion article; Received： 2017-08-24Generally speaking, the silk industry plays an important role for economic and cultural aspects in the society of Vietnam.Although it is not a leading major in economy, silk industry brings income for thousands of farmers, and for the sericulture zones.It makes significant profits.Moreover, for Vietnamese manufacturers and traders, silk and textile product is valuable foreign currency income.Besides, silk industry promotes rural economic restructuring of Vietnam to industrialization and modernization, reduces the proportion of agriculture, and increases the proportion of services and handicrafts.Lanh My A silk created in Tan Chau, An Giang Province is a popular and well-known material of Vietnam that has a development history through decades.With the comfortable characteristics for wearing, time-consuming dyeing process and glossy black colour from persimmon extract, Lanh My A is rated as high-class silk fabric of Vietnam.Until present, there are very few journals about Lanh My A silk, such as An Giang Handicraft and Industry by Professor Le Minh Tung, The last artist of Lanh My A by journalist Nguyen Quynh Huong.However, they just focus on analyzing the weaving and dyeing technology of Lanh My A.On the basis of historical documents and data collected through research process, this article provides an overall knowledge about the history of Lanh My A silk, and its revival after difficult time and also recommends some application ways for modern textiles.1 概况 1 Introduction1.1 越南丝绸业对领美亚丝绸的影响 1.1 Effect of history of Vietnam silk industry on Lanh My A silkFrom the 15 century, silk industry had contributed positively to economy of Vietnam.From 1858, the Vietnam–France war started.The French government appreciated the potential resources of sericulture and textiles in Vietnam.In 1886, French army established the Department of Silk in Ha Noi, and prepared the plans and strategies to raise and collect the mulberry leaves, silkworm eggs and cocoon in Northern Vietnam.From 1905, French government implemented the tax-free policies for textile products and built large silk centers in the whole country.By 1923, Indochina budgeted by French army for silk industry was divided as follows:Northern Vietnam 702.000francs (125.200 USD) , Central Vietnam 123.000 francs (21.900 USD) , and Southern Vietnam129.000 francs (23.000 USD) .This capital boosted the development of silk industry throughout Vietnam, and especially the new sericulture areas such as Tan Chau (An Giang Province) in Southern Vietnam, where the typical product was Lanh My A silk[1].In the 1930s, factors of capital goods helped numerous traders in Tan Chau, An Giang who made good benefits from textile products and opened private textile workshops.Except domestic manufacture resources, farmers imported silkworm eggs and cocoon from England, France, Brasil and China.In 1945, Vietnam Revolution was successful, and the war ended.Silk industry was concerned and invested by government.1.2 潭州养蚕业的发展 1.2 Developed period of Tan Chau sericulture zoneLocated in the northwestern An Giang Province, Tan Chau Silk Town has been well known for long-known silk weaving.In July 1908, the very first Vietnam Silk Institute was established by French army in An Giang Province.Tan Chau was considered as the trade center of 。